This trip was a long time coming. Some may even argue the universe was conspiring against it. First in 2021, my good friend Juan Pablo and I booked an airbnb that was canceled due to continued restoration from a hurricane that hit in 2020 – fair. Then Spring of 2023, once rebuilt and better equipped than ever to welcome tourists, we rebooked. Then, not one, but two airlines went under, ceasing all operations and canceling our flights multiple times in the weeks and days leading up to our scheduled departure. Ok, not panicking, I didn’t want to go anyways (kidding, I very much wanted to go). Alas, we made it to both San Andres and Providencia for the 2023 Semana Santa, the week of Easter, breaking my own rule to avoid Colombian beaches at all costs during this week when essentially the entire country has off of work and school. I rationalized, though owned by Colombia, these islands located off of the coast of Nicaragua surely must be far enough removed to avoid the Semana Santa shenanigans. Was this hypothesis correct? Did the islands live up to they hype? Did my Gringo credit card pull through with the infamous purchase protection during these “unprecedented times”? Yes, yes it did, thank you Chase. Well, read on and all of your questions will surely be answered.
Overview and My Unsolicited Opinions
As mentioned, I had my doubts that this trip was going to happen, so in the spirit of not counting my chickens before they hatch, I went into this trip having done very little research. Thus, I had few expectations and I came out with a whole lot of opinions. But spoiler alert, both islands are very much worth visiting, but in accordance with saving the best for last, let’s begin with San Andres.
San Andres
- Overall: San Andres is famous for crystal clear turquoise water, hotel resorts, and white sand beaches. All valid, all was delivered. The water was undoubtedly the bluest water I’ve ever laid my eyes on, striated with endless shades of blue, and while there are resorts with 5 star customer service, they are not the large secluded chains that you’ll get somewhere like Cancun. Which to me, is a positive aspect as you really get to experience San Andres vs a Hilton hotel with a San Andres theme if you know what I mean. No matter if you’re in the downtown area or taking a lap around the island venturing into the smaller local beaches and towns, it all felt super safe to explore.
- Customer Service: This 5 star customer service is an assumption based off of the price and reputation of these resorts as I didn’t stay at one. Which leads me to my next observation – the local people. Man, I can go on for days about how lovely Colombians are in general. San Andres, on a holiday weekend, unfortunately did not follow suit. The people who ran our hostel were sweet and helpful. But the service from people who worked at restaurants and those who ran the tourist attractions were … less than welcoming. Restaurant service wasn’t great to put it lightly. And the excursions, I’ll start by saying they weren’t super expensive to begin with but just the constant nickle and diming, and under delivering of what was agreed upon, became exhausting. Maybe doing more research in regards to restaurants and excursions would have left us with a better impression.
- Shopping: Unbeknown to me, San Andres has duty free status. Thus, the downtown area is in fact reminiscent of an airport. If you’re looking for electronics, perfume, luggage, etc at a debatably and marginally lower price, this is your place!
- Semana Santa/Holiday Weekend: Since it was a holiday weekend, I came prepared with accommodation and transportation. Though, I actually didn’t have a return flight until I was forced to buy one at the gate before boarding. This was possibly due to the aforementioned airline fiasco, but maybe it would be a good idea regardless to have a return flight. Once arriving, we didn’t have much of an issue with bookings or reservations and besides the main beach by the town, crowds were for the most part nonexistent. Besides the touristy excursions, there were even parts of the island where that we had a beach or viewpoint all to ourselves. A news article even claimed that 2023 had less tourists for Semana Santa than the past 20 years. Though the people trying to sell us excursions or golf cart rentals had no problem marking up the price 3x in the name of Semana Santa, more on that later.
Providencia
- Locals: An absolute highlight were the people on this island. The culture has more of a Jamaican/Islander vibe. A version of English Creole as well as Spanish is spoken and everyone seems to know everyone. The people are incredibly welcoming and seem to genuinely want to share the beauty of their island with visitors without making it a Disney World production. I really have nothing but great things to say about the people on this small isolated island, and they will be the first to say that their island is very different from San Andres.
- Beauty: Providencia is as beautiful, if not more so than San Andres. San Andres may have more activities surrounding the island like swimming areas and water slides, but with Providencia you get even less people and more spectacular vantage points. Providencia is full of beaches each with their own personality.
- Comfort: Providencia is remote, and while resources are limited, there are some really nice places to stay. This may be one area that if you’re looking for a comfortable resort with a cloud like mattress and AC, San Andres may be the better fit. We were truthfully comfortable enough the entire time with the occasional mosquitos (bring layers for the night). A fan over the bed was sufficient to manage the heat. I’m sure there are places that are a bit more “luxurious” but still a long way from a Marriott.
- Price: I think the overall theme is mostly everything was worth the slight up charge. The grocery store is small, but had the basics. And considering that the bottle of water has come a very long way, the up charge is validated. In regards to excursions, the lancha tour was, 100k COP vs 40k COP in San Andres ($22 vs $9 USD). Double the price but 10x the experience. We paid about $60/night for our Airbnb with an incredible view and a functional kitchen.
Transportation
To San Andres:
From mainland Colombia there are daily flights from most major cities including Bogotá, Medellín, and Cartagena. All relatively quick and painless, though a bit more expensive than the average domestic flight within Colombia, especially on a holiday weekend. LATAM and Avianca both fly into the San Andres Airport (ADZ).
While on the island, if you don’t have a Colombian bank account to transfer money, you’ll want to bring cash. There are ATMs available on the island but the ones in the airport didn’t work while I was there so definitely bring some with you, at least to pay the taxi to your accommodation. From there, you’ll want to rent either a golf cart or a carrito .. they are more or less the same in my opinion but I’ve been told otherwise. I recommend arranging the return at the airport before your flight so you can bring yourself and your luggage there without hiring a taxi. If you’re prepared, you may even be able to arrange both a pick up and drop off at the airport, requiring no taxi at all. Just make sure you download a map and have directions ahead of time. More info about renting a golf cart/carrito below.
Arriving internationally: There may be flights from airports such as Mexico City, Panama City, and San Salvador but many may require a transfer within mainland Colombia.
To Providencia:
There are two ways to get to Providencia, both requiring arriving in San Andres first.
1. Fly with SATENA from San Andres. These flights are expensive considering that flight time is about 15-20 minutes, but it’s the most convenient way to get there and they have a generous baggage policy with included checked baggage
2. Boat: This is a 3 hour boat ride which I’ve heard isn’t the most comfortable
Once on the island, you’ll definitely want to rent a scooter. Trust me, this is the absolutely safest place you can rent/drive a scooter. It’s super easy, there is basically only one road that circles the island with barely any cars, and it’s well paved. If traveling with kids or anyone who is very hesitant about riding a scooter, ask your accommodation ahead of time about reserving a golf cart as they are a bit limited. A car is unnecessary for anything other than airport transfers. We took a cab from the airport, there will be a few waiting. He asked us when our return flight was and showed up at our door, as promised.
San Andres: Where To Stay
If looking for an economical accommodation, I can recommend Rock House Hostel. The owners/managers are very nice and welcoming. The AC in our room worked well. The beds were comfortable enough. And it was only about $30/night. The only negative was the experiences we had when booking the carrito and excursion. To their credit, they are only the middle men and we gave our honest review so hopefully they will change to more reputable people when outsourcing. So if staying here, I’d maybe suggest researching the excursions before booking.
There’s a decent amount of all inclusive hotels. If it’s in your budget, I’d say why not. The service and food in town wasn’t anything to write home about so if you find a place with good food and positive reviews, I say go for it.
San Andres: Where To Eat
Believe it or not, I only have 1 restaurant recommendation.
La Regatta: make a reservation if going during popular times. The food was really good and it’s built right on a dock so you’re surrounded by water. They had a decently large drink and food menu and has some quirky decorations on the way in.
In general, maybe just unlucky, we found finding a good meal to be a bit difficult. It’s the type of place that if you want to eat breakfast at noon, you can’t. Places are pretty strict with times that they will serve certain foods and some didn’t really seem to want to serve as at all.
Which brings me to bubble waffles, if you know me, the fact that I ate a bubble waffle cone with ice cream (see below) for lunch, may validate my claim that we were having some issues… and I was hangry. But again, maybe my own fault for not doing sufficient research. Anyways, these stands are plentiful in town, like maybe 4 or 5 within a small radius, and are pretty damn good to be honest.
San Andres: What To Do
This section requires a preface. If you’ve read any of this blog, yes we know, it was Semana Santa, the week where I advice you to avoid any and all Colombian beaches if possible. Think of this as going to Florida during spring break. Prices will skyrocket and capacity will be beyond capabilities. Though this year wasn’t quite as busy as years prior, the mentality was still to raise prices in the name of “supply and demand”, though maybe it was more of a last ditch effort to compensate for the lack of tourists. Though I didn’t appreciate the hustle, I have to have empathy that maybe people were scared as this is in fact their livelihood.
Rent a golf cart/carrito: As mentioned, this is extremely important, we got the contact of the guy from our hostel but you can also hear people in town renting them. My favorite part of San Andres was riding around the island and stopping at view points and beaches along the way. It gives you freedom and the ability to really see the beauty of San Andres. The roads are well paved and easy to navigate, just keep a downloaded map on your phone as some of the roads in town get a bit confusing. You can rent these for 12 or 24 hours. Again, read reviews and check the vehicle before you take it. Our carrito was in terrible condition and didn’t even have mirrors. Then when we changed our pick up time for the next hour (still within our 24 hour time frame) he threatened to keep our deposit. Moral of the story, it left us with a bad taste in our mouths so just be clear on expectations before you give them money.
Acuario: Oof, Acuario. We booked this through our hostel. The water is beautiful, the island was ok. You have to walk/swim from one island to the next while holding a rope (if you want). In the spirit of money milking, there is a guy with a raft or child’s pedal boat who picks up distressed people along the way, for 10k pesos of course. On the island you can get a coco loco which is a coconut filled with an assortment of alcohol and of course the existing coconut water. They aren’t great. Our lancha going to Acuario basically scammed everyone into paying 10k extra, just to him, for giving us an extra lap around the reef. He asked a boat of strangers, anyone who doesn’t want to do it raise your hand … I thought I didn’t understand him as it was in Spanish, but he surely can’t be asking a boat of 20 strangers to all decide as a team if they want to pay extra for an unsolicited tour. But surely it was true. AND THEN, our lancha left us on the island because they left 20 minutes before the scheduled departure and the guy actually yelled at us for it. Later we realized he was just angry because he could get more money for filling the earlier boat, and we were able to get on the next lancha. Overall, it was meh, but the water is beautiful
Johnny Cay: Also accessible by lancha. I believe it’s possible to do the Johnny Cay in conjunction with Acuario and maybe this would be a good idea for one full touristy day. Johnny Cay is supposed to be the more beautiful island.
Scuba Dive/Snorkel: These trips are plentiful. Read reviews online or save the snorkeling for Providencia if that’s the next spot as the lancha tour takes you to 3 snorkel spots.
Rent a boat: If going with family or a group of friends, I would look into renting a private boat for a few hours to explore the gorgeous water without needing to deal with the group tour drama
Kite Surf: The wind seemed a bit light when I was there, but I did see a kite here and there. A friend said he kite surfed around Acuario, and that seems like an ideal way to see it. There was a kite surf store on the island so if interested in buying equipment duty free, might be worth a look
Providencia: Where To Stay
Airbnb: We stayed at High Hill airbnb. This turned out to be a great location and I mean, look at that view (see below). It was walkable to Southwest Beach and even walkable to the smaller touristic town, though town may be a bit of a stretch. This is where you’ll find a supermarket and a few restaurants. Though technically walkable, walking isn’t that pleasant in the heat and it’s definitely not common. When I was walking back alone from the grocery store, 4 people stopped on their scooters/motorcycles to give me a ride, another reason why the people of Providencia are the best. But I digress, the room and kitchen were basic but functional. It’s a cabana of sorts connected to the main house where the host lives and they have another airbnb rental which accommodates a few more people. Definitely browse properties on airbnb as there are many options.
Hotels: There are also a few hotels on the island, again, nothing is going to be super fancy. It may also be worth checking out the cabañas attached to Miss Elma’s restaurant (Decameron) or the cabañas at Southwest Bay.
Providencia: Where To Eat
The food on the island was really good, with a not so surprising focus on seafood. Some favorite restaurants are listed below:
- Donde Martin/Carribean Place: Make a reservation a few days in advance, this is one of the “fancier” restaurants though take that with a grain of salt as the island itself is super casual
- Miss Elma: A great lunch spot with a view of the water. They close at 5pm
- El Divino Niño: Seafood spot on Southwest beach, casual and decently priced
- Cafe Sudio: Our airbnb hosts raved about this place and went on a date night there one night. They mentioned that it was owned by a Canadian
Providencia: What To Do
Rent a scooter. There is no better place to ride a vespa like scooter than Providencia. Should cost about 90-100 COP/24 hours. An absolute must do and I’d recommend keeping it for your entire stay. There is really no better feeling than driving around the island with the wind in your hair, surrounded by the beauty of Providencia.
Lancha Tour: This exceeded expectations. In my opinion, it’s significantly better than the excursions from San Andres. It includes a visit to a small island with an incredible view and a swimming/snorkeling spot. Then you go to two different reefs for snorkeling. Bring your own or borrow their masks an snorkel. I have really nothing but nice things to say.
Santa Catalina: A small neighboring island connected to Providencia by a bridge. There is a hike up to the highest point and a small beach with a snorkel spot. Park your scooter on the Providencia side and walk over. You can stay on Santa Catalina but it’s not necessary.
Scuba Dive: Sharks, fish, star fish, reefs. I don’t dive but if you do, this is the place to do it. Snorkeling is also a cheaper, less skilled or intense option
Live Music: Playa Manzanilla is a beach and at night they play live music. It’s fun and a good way to see the love that the local people have for their island. When we arrived we heard that we were lucky because Thursday is THE NIGHT for this live music. To be honest, we also heard that for Friday and Saturday as well. Ask around and people will know about it
I hope that through my honest view, I could emphasis the points in which I could have been more prepared without discouraging you from going. Both islands are surely worth the visit (especially Providencia), and I hope to return one day as well. Please enjoy the pictures below and know that it’s truly even more beautiful than what I captured on my Iphone.
