Lake Atitlán
Just a few hours driving from Antigua lies Lake Atitlán. Rumor has it, the lake is the remanence of a collapsed volcano. Following a deep dive into the topic, with admittedly a scarce understanding of geology in it’s relation to volcanos and lake formations, it seems to actually be the result of several collapsed volcanos. They say this is why there is a special energy around the lake, mystical, spiritual, magnetic, whatever you want to call it. Weather you believe in this or not, the lake is undeniably beautiful and the Mayan culture is very much present even amongst the tourism. What I found most intriguing though, is the multiple personalities of the lake personified in it’s surrounding towns.
Transportation
From Antigua there are a few transportation options, keep in mind there may be heavy traffic at times and roads around the lake can be rough:
- Uber: The safe, comfortable, and convenient option. If traveling with two or three other people, this may also be about the same price as a shuttle.
- Shuttle: If traveling solo, this would be my suggestion. I used GoGuate shuttle from the airport to Antigua and I believe they have shuttles to the lake as well. Selina also has a shuttle which you can sign up for.
- Chicken Bus: Guatemala is one of the only countries where I never once took public transportation (besides the lanchas). Almost every blog will mention that the chicken buses are inconvenient and uncomfortable. An option for those with all the time and patience in the world, but maybe a dwindling budget.
Lanchas: Essentially motorized fishing boats. This is the most economic and convenient way to get from one town to the next. When you go to the dock, especially in Panajachel, there may be people offering private lanchas. They may say that you’ll need to wait 30 minutes+ for the public lancha. Check first, likely they are lying and are offering almost the exact same service for a much greater price. And on the topic, always confirm the price first, even for the public lancha, and try to have exact change on you. Lanchas aren’t terribly uncomfortable, but they can be packed and a bit bumpy at times.
Tuk tuks: Most towns are relatively walkable despite some hills. When needed, there is usually a tuk tuk to hop into. In some cases, you can use tuk tuks to go from one town to the next. Your hostel/hotel will be able to tell you the best way to get from point A to point B and how much to expect to pay.
Panajachel "Pana"
Panajachel otherwise known as “Pana”. This is essentially the portal to the lake. Not all, but most transportation options will leave you in Pana, and from there you can take a lancha to the other towns. This is the most developed of the towns in regards to finding wifi, banks, grocery stores, etc. It’s also worth noting that Pana is one of the flatter towns, not requiring quite so much uphill walking. I recommend staying a day on either end of your trip in Pana and spending the rest amongst some other towns.
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- Where to stay: Selina has a pool, wifi, nice food, decent rooms (private and dorms), and a “beachside” bar. Popular amongst digital nomads, it’s a comfortable spot to stay
- What to do: Pana is rather touristy. Though there are is a fair share of clutter being sold amongst the lake, there are some nice souvenir shops as well. It’s nice to browse for a bit. Amongst the market there are also many interesting snack and drink stands. They are serving things like a michelada slushy with spicy cheetos with peanuts on top
- ATV tour. From Pana you can take an ATV tour. The guy’s instagram is – MgtJose. We lucked out that our group tour was just my friend and I. It was EXTENSIVE tour – 6 or 7 hours, partly because we kept buying him drinks. We went to bars and local spots as well as the touristy stops that were also actually worth seeing (chocolate factory and hot springs). The tour takes you past some incredible views and the beautiful towns of Santa Catarina Palopo + San Antonio Palopo. Worth it in my opinion
- Where to eat: Pizza Ente has a great view of the lake, we had the ATV guy take us here at the end of the tour because it’s a bit out of the way. We bought him pizza and then rode the ATVs back into town.
- Paragliding: Wind was bad when we were there but apparently it’s a good place for it
- Chichicastenango is the largest market in South America. It’s located a few hours away from the lake. Every Thursday and Sunday
San Marcos
- Where to Stay: If there is a place around the lake to pay a bit more for accommodation, it would be here. I’ve only heard negative things about the hostels in San Marcos, but Lush, the hotel we stayed at was fantastic
- Lush: Hotel with a great location and proximity to the lake. Would recommend staying here and taking a yoga classes at Eagles Nest and/or Yoga Forest
- Eagles Nest or Yoga Forest: Both eco lodges/retreats. A bit off the beaten path and difficult to reach at night or with rolling luggage. Good food and unparalleled views. Stay here if you’re number 1 goal is to be immersed in yoga or other classes such as ecstatic dance, sound baths, cacao ceremonies, etc.
- Airbnbs: There are many insane airbnb options available in San Marcos and around the lake in general
- Where to eat/drink:
- El Buho tea house
- Dragon Mood Temple Sushi and Tea
- Samsara
- The Restaurant at Lush Hotel
- Vida – live music at night
- What to do:
- Trampoline: 40 ft dock that you can jump off of with smaller rocks surrounding it to jump off or relax
- As mentioned: take a class at Eagles Nest and/or Yoga Forrest. They have impressive views. Give yourself some time to reach them as it can be a bit confusing and a trek uphill
- Take classes of any sort. If you browse downtown, you’ll be sure to find bulletin boards with people offering services and classes, typically spiritual, health, or wellness related.
SAnta Cruz
- Hostels: Free Cerveza and La Iguana Perdida are the two main places to stay. The hostels provide family dinners at night and a cafe during the day
- Study Spanish: La Iguana Perdida actually had a weekly deal including accommodation, meals, and Spanish lessons. I think this is a really good idea. The fact that there really isn’t much to do in the town makes it a great place to study and focus
- Take a yoga class
- Paddle board/kayak: these can be rented from Free Cerveza. I think if you’re staying there, they may be free
- To explore town you can hike up the hill or take a tuk tuk that will most likely be waiting at the bottom of the hill
SAn Pedro
- Where to Eat:
- Zoola: lounge with cushions on the floor, Mediterranean food. BYOB (I think) but there is also a bar
- Sababa: Great views, Israeli food
- Yakitori de Cava: Japanese
- Fifth Dimension: really good plant based food
- Where to Stay:
- Mandala Hostel: It was sufficient, nice communal spaces, terraces, and arranged tours/activities. However it is very close to Mr. Mullets so it was relatively loud at night
- I can’t speak from experience since I only stayed at Mandala, but there are many hotels, hostels, and airbnbs to choose from online
- What to Do:
- Learn Spanish: There are many Spanish schools with and without homestays
- Sunrise hike to Indian Nose. This can be done without a guide but I recommend going with one. They provide transport and there was apparently an issue with “bandits”. At 4am, it’s a lot easier to just follow someone
- “Hot pools” or “Solar Pools” basically hot outdoor bathtubs that you can rent by the hour. It was a slightly strange but fun activity. We brought our own wine, debatable if it was meant to be a BYOB experience, but no one said anything to us. As they say – Es mejor pedir perdón que pedir permiso (It’s better to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission)
- Climb Volcán San Pedro, 4-5 hours round trip
- Party at Mr. Mullets, but don’t stay anywhere near it if you want to sleep
When To go:
Avoid rainy season if possible (May through October). I went in November and the weather was pretty good. Warm during the day, cool at night, with just a bit of rain. A friend went during September to take Spanish classes in San Pedro and was disappointed as by the time classes were over each day, it would be raining.
Overview
With as much variety in personality of the towns, comes as many, if not more, opinions from both locals and tourists. At first, these opinions are welcome in regards to planning an itinerary and activities, but soon they become a bit annoying. My honest recommendation would be, if you have the time, try out at least a few towns to make your own judgement and take everything you hear with a grain of salt.
